Jewelry Terms Explained
Glossary & Reference
Understanding jewelry terminology helps you communicate with jewelers, evaluate pieces, and make informed purchases. Here are essential terms every collector should know.
Metal Terms
- Alloy
- A mixture of two or more metals. Most jewelry gold is alloyed with other metals for durability.
- Carat (Karat)
- For gold, a measure of purity. 24 karat = pure gold. (Note: "Carat" also measures gemstone weight.)
- Fineness
- Purity expressed as parts per thousand. 750 fineness = 75% pure (18K gold).
- Hallmark
- Official mark stamped on precious metals indicating purity, origin, and maker.
- Vermeil
- Sterling silver with a gold plating at least 2.5 microns thick.
- Gold-filled
- Base metal with a thick layer of gold bonded by heat. More durable than plating.
Setting Terms
- Prong (Claw) Setting
- Metal claws hold the gemstone, allowing maximum light entry.
- Bezel Setting
- Metal rim completely surrounds the gemstone edge. Very secure.
- Pavé
- Small stones set closely together, appearing to pave the surface.
- Channel Setting
- Stones set in a row between two metal walls.
- Tension Setting
- Stone held in place by pressure from the band, appearing to float.
- Flush (Gypsy) Setting
- Stone set into the metal surface, sitting flush with the band.
Diamond Terms
- Brilliance
- White light reflected from diamond's surface and interior.
- Fire
- The rainbow colors seen when light is dispersed through the diamond.
- Scintillation
- The sparkle and pattern of light when the diamond moves.
- Inclusion
- Natural characteristic inside the diamond (crystal, feather, cloud, etc.).
- Blemish
- Surface characteristic on the diamond.
- Table
- The flat top facet of a diamond.
- Crown
- The upper part of the diamond above the girdle.
- Pavilion
- The lower part of the diamond below the girdle.
- Girdle
- The outer edge of the diamond where crown meets pavilion.
General Jewelry Terms
- Bail
- The loop that connects a pendant to a chain.
- Findings
- Components used to finish jewelry: clasps, jump rings, ear wires, etc.
- Patina
- Surface color change from age, wear, or oxidation.
- Provenance
- The documented history of ownership.
- Suite (Parure)
- A matching set of jewelry pieces.